Before I can get going on a new pattern, I usually need to make lots of alterations, especially for the upper body. The Alma blouse was no exception. This is not a criticism of the pattern, but something I have to do all the time. Although a simple pattern, I needed to make a lot of changes to get a good fit, and this took me a day to achieve.
Firstly, I reduced the neckline to reduce gaping, and increased the shoulder width because of my broad shoulders.
I then made up my first muslin using kwik trace. When I tried it on, it was apparent that several more changes were needed : -
1. The bust point was too high so that I had a surplus of fabric puffing out on my upper chest. This was remedied by cutting the pattern across the upper chest and adding 1.5cm to the length, and then reducing the front by a corresponding 1.5 cm at the "increase or decrease here" line. I also had to smarten up the darts.
2. The neckline was too small (probably because I had reduced the neckline), and had lost the intended shape. I enlarged this by marking the first muslin where I wanted the neckline to be, and then shaped the pattern using my French curve.
3. The blouse felt tight across my shoulders. I, therefore, checked it against my measurements, and then added some width, but tapering it down at the side seams which were fine at the lower end of the blouse.
4. The neckline was sticking out at the back. This is a problem which I frequently encounter on ready to wear clothing (and can usually hide with my long hair). This was remedied by adding two small darts to the neckline in the direction of the shoulder blade. I marked the shoulder blade point on my pattern, and also re-positioned the back darts to sit just below these points.
5. As usual, because of my sway back, there was a surplus of fabric in the lower back region. This was corrected by pinning the muslin across the width of the lower back to take out the surplus fabric, and then transferring the changes to the pattern piece, making sure that it tapered to the edge so as not to affect the length of the side seams.
After all this, I was concerned that I had made so many changes that the pattern would not come together or resemble the original. I made up another muslin, but this time in fabric (I used an old bed sheet).
When I tried on the second muslin, it fitted like a glove! Success!!!! The joy of this is the comfort a well fitting garment gives you so that you are hardly aware that you are wearing anything! More flattering too of course. Although not shown here, I also stitched in the sleeves, which were also a good fit.
I am indebted to one of my old books "Sewing" by Ann Ladbury, for some of the advice on alterations.
Now I have the pattern sorted, I can go ahead and make the blouse up with confidence. I plan to make the first one in a lace fabric. As facings will show through, I am going to exclude them, but back the lace with chiffon, and may reinforce the neck edge with satin bias binding.
If I had just sailed ahead and made up the pattern as printed, I would end up feeling disappointed with my finished garment. It was worth the effort, and will fulfil my intention of having well made clothes that fit properly.
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