Tuesday 29 April 2014

10 TIPS (so far) FOR SUCCESS IN SEWING (with no pictures!)

I have been sewing on and off for years.  My earliest recollection was being shown by my grandmother how to sew on a button when I was about six years old.  As a teenager, I was not that interested in sewing or dressmaking.  The 70's and early 80's was an era of change, and anything to do with domesticity was rejected.  Instead, I was a reader of Cosmo, and imagined myself being a career woman!  I dabbled in making clothes in my early 20's, using my Mum's Singer sewing machine, with moderate success.  I even made some Madonna style fingerless gloves!  Only recently, have I taken up sewing more seriously again, since deciding to work part time, and having time for me.

My sewing is a work in progress, and I am learning all the time, still not brave enough to tackle anything like a jacket or coat.  However, I have just submitted a blouse to a local shop - C&H Fabrics, who are running a fun sewing bee competition.  When the results have been published, I will share my project.  It would be lovely to win a prize, but I am not that optimistic, after hearing another lady say that she never used sewing patterns and would make up her own design.  Yikes!! Big gulp!

I thought that it would be useful to share some of the things that I have found helpful, to avoid making some of the mistakes that I have done.

1. Don't be too ambitious to begin with.  I made an expensive mistake back in 2010, when I decided that I would make my own wedding dress!  Far too ambitious.  I ended up buying one two weeks before the big day.

2. Take photographs of the back of the pattern envelope with your phone.  You then have the information you need to buy the right amount of fabric and correct notions!  I came to this idea when I found myself liking a fabric, and then having to leaf through the pattern books to find the pattern and information that I needed.

3. Sign up for lessons if you can.  It is more fun learning with other people who have the same skill level, and you are less likely to make mistakes and become disillusioned.

4. Be patient.  Dressmaking takes time, and sometimes the pattern instructions can be confusing.  I am still amazed when I read blogs that refer to making something in a few hours - it takes me that long just to cut something out!  Anyway, I enjoy the process of making something as much as the satisfaction of seeing the end result.

5.  Don't expect to save much money.  Sewing clothes can be costly, when you consider the cost of a pattern, fabric, and notions.

6.  Look out in charity shops for clothes that have nice fabric and can be converted into something new.  You may also be lucky enough to buy a length of fabric at a knock down price.  I have quite a few lengths of fabric in my "stash", which I paid next to nothing for.

7.  If in doubt about the fit, make a mock up (or toile) in an old bit of fabric such as an old bed sheet.  Also consider inserting a zip as well.   I have found that fitting garments is the most challenging aspect of sewing - patterns vary quite a bit too, and it's quite hard to fit a garment by yourself!  The fabric will also affect the fit.

8.  Study your own "off the peg" clothes.  I have learnt a lot about construction and choosing the right kind of fabric, as well as getting idea's for embellishments.

9.  Don't be put off by plain looking patterns.  They can be given the wow factor by using a dramatic or luxurious fabric.

10.  Warning!  You can become obsessed.  I can find myself lying in bed at night dreaming up what I could make.  Or I can find myself looking at clothes in shops and thinking that I can make it cheaper - this is sort of true, if I had an infinite amount of time and did nothing but sew!

Happy sewing!


Saturday 19 April 2014

A SNIP - SHRUG EASTER WEEKEND PROJECT

 
 
It's Easter Saturday, and as I write, the sun is shining.  Today, I am going to write about something a little different - how I made a simple and cheap shrug bought from a supermarket, into something a bit more special.
 
For a long time, I have been looking for a lightweight, white cotton cardigan or shrug, to wear with a few favourite sleeveless summer dresses.  In the past, I used to be able to buy pretty little cotton lace knitted cardigans in M&S, that went with everything, but they don't do them anymore.  Most of what I find nowadays is in ivory, not white.
 
Well, I happened to be doing my weekly shop, and came across a little lightweight shrug, in white with scalloped edges, and made from 80% cotton, 20% nylon.  A snip at £8.00 (made in Cambodia).  Perfect!  I only hope that the people who made this garment were paid fairly. 
 
I was reminded of little cardigans in the medium price range market (about £50 - £60), that have been embellished with lace (as is the current trend). 
 
I have an old biscuit tin, with scraps of lace.
 



I raided my tin, and found some cotton lace that was the perfect width (about an inch wide), that was scalloped along one edge, mirroring the scalloped edges of the shrug.
 
 
 
This was a simple transformation.  I simply pinned the lace around the edges
 


 
 
..and stitched in place using the stretch stitch on my sewing machine.  The ends were finished by hand sewing, turning under the edges to prevent fraying.  Then pressed. 
 
 
 
 
 
I am pleased with the results, and look forward to wearing it with my favourite summer dresses. 
 

 

 
 
Right now, the supermarket in question has 25% off all clothing, so you could get hold of the same shrug for a mere £6.00.
 
Lovely!
 
And now for something not sewing related.  Here is a picture of my Easter Simnel cake. 
 
 
 
I used a favourite recipe from a book - Glorious Cakes by Ann Nicol.  I decorated the top with lightly toasted marzipan (toast the top of the cake, then add the balls of marzipan using egg white as glue and toast lightly).  When the marzipan had cooled, I put a puddle of glace icing in the centre, and decorated with crystalised violets and a primrose from my garden.
 
 
 
Have a wonderful Easter everyone!
 
 
 
 

Thursday 10 April 2014

FASHION PROJECT - Holiday dress with orchids on.

If you like flowers and plants, you may know that this weekend see's the Royal Horticultural Society's Orchid and Botanical Art Show in London.  So, what better time than to share my "orchid dress".

 
 
My first attempt at this dress was 7 years ago, when I decided to dust off my sewing machine and have a go at making some clothes.  The problem was that I had not done any dress making for years, and naively cut out my pattern size without checking my measurements....and guess what? The bodice didn't fit at all!  Feeling disappointed, the unmade dress went into the stash pile, with the intention of trying to make it again when I was feeling more confident.
 
Recently, I fell in love with Kate Spades collection using a summery print with lemons on!  It reminded me of my orchid fabric hidden in my stash pile because of the bright colours contrast against the white. 
 
 
 I  made the dress using the same pattern as before - Butterick B4443, view C.  I believe this is a popular pattern for making bridesmaids dresses.
 
 
I re-drafted the bodice, and made a toile first, which seemed to fit quite well.  

 
Close up view of bodice
 
 

 
Front of dress with belt tied at the back

The changes that I made were to back the fabric instead of lining it (because my fabric was a fine lawn and fairly transparent), and to increase the length of the belt.  I used a contrasting colour for the belt, which slightly clashes but I think adds a bit of zing!
 
 
 
 
 
Rear view of the dress

 
Front view with belt tied at the front

 After recently reading Handmade Jane's post on adding a waist stay, I decided to add this too - I just need to add the fasteners when I next get a chance to visit my local sewing supplier.

 

Waist stay 


 On the day I took the pictures I wasn't feeling well, with a cold and a red nose.  Hence the dummy is my substitute model.  The dress fits well though, and I am looking forward to wearing it.

WHAT I LEARNT

That when I cut out the skirt all those years ago, I failed to notice that I had cut the back pattern pieces upside down - oops!  I don't think that it is too obvious though.

WHAT I WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY NEXT TIME

As the skirt is circular, the hem is quite tricky, and more so having been backed,  creating unnecessary bulk at the hemline.  Instead, I would opt for a full dress length lining instead.


Dreaming of balmy warm sunny mediteranean days, with a cool limoncello.  Imagining myself perched at a table overlooking the sea, wearing my dress and  new white wedges.  La dolce vita!

Have a good weekend folks!  I am off to Lymington in Hampshire to visit my (grown up) children before Easter.