10 TIPS (so far) FOR SUCCESS IN SEWING (with no pictures!)

I have been sewing on and off for years.  My earliest recollection was being shown by my grandmother how to sew on a button when I was about six years old.  As a teenager, I was not that interested in sewing or dressmaking.  The 70's and early 80's was an era of change, and anything to do with domesticity was rejected.  Instead, I was a reader of Cosmo, and imagined myself being a career woman!  I dabbled in making clothes in my early 20's, using my Mum's Singer sewing machine, with moderate success.  I even made some Madonna style fingerless gloves!  Only recently, have I taken up sewing more seriously again, since deciding to work part time, and having time for me.

My sewing is a work in progress, and I am learning all the time, still not brave enough to tackle anything like a jacket or coat.  However, I have just submitted a blouse to a local shop - C&H Fabrics, who are running a fun sewing bee competition.  When the results have been published, I will share my project.  It would be lovely to win a prize, but I am not that optimistic, after hearing another lady say that she never used sewing patterns and would make up her own design.  Yikes!! Big gulp!

I thought that it would be useful to share some of the things that I have found helpful, to avoid making some of the mistakes that I have done.

1. Don't be too ambitious to begin with.  I made an expensive mistake back in 2010, when I decided that I would make my own wedding dress!  Far too ambitious.  I ended up buying one two weeks before the big day.

2. Take photographs of the back of the pattern envelope with your phone.  You then have the information you need to buy the right amount of fabric and correct notions!  I came to this idea when I found myself liking a fabric, and then having to leaf through the pattern books to find the pattern and information that I needed.

3. Sign up for lessons if you can.  It is more fun learning with other people who have the same skill level, and you are less likely to make mistakes and become disillusioned.

4. Be patient.  Dressmaking takes time, and sometimes the pattern instructions can be confusing.  I am still amazed when I read blogs that refer to making something in a few hours - it takes me that long just to cut something out!  Anyway, I enjoy the process of making something as much as the satisfaction of seeing the end result.

5.  Don't expect to save much money.  Sewing clothes can be costly, when you consider the cost of a pattern, fabric, and notions.

6.  Look out in charity shops for clothes that have nice fabric and can be converted into something new.  You may also be lucky enough to buy a length of fabric at a knock down price.  I have quite a few lengths of fabric in my "stash", which I paid next to nothing for.

7.  If in doubt about the fit, make a mock up (or toile) in an old bit of fabric such as an old bed sheet.  Also consider inserting a zip as well.   I have found that fitting garments is the most challenging aspect of sewing - patterns vary quite a bit too, and it's quite hard to fit a garment by yourself!  The fabric will also affect the fit.

8.  Study your own "off the peg" clothes.  I have learnt a lot about construction and choosing the right kind of fabric, as well as getting idea's for embellishments.

9.  Don't be put off by plain looking patterns.  They can be given the wow factor by using a dramatic or luxurious fabric.

10.  Warning!  You can become obsessed.  I can find myself lying in bed at night dreaming up what I could make.  Or I can find myself looking at clothes in shops and thinking that I can make it cheaper - this is sort of true, if I had an infinite amount of time and did nothing but sew!

Happy sewing!

A SNIP - SHRUG EASTER WEEKEND PROJECT

 

 

It's Easter Saturday, and as I write, the sun is shining.  Today, I am going to write about something a little different - how I made a simple and cheap shrug bought from a supermarket, into something a bit more special.

 

For a long time, I have been looking for a lightweight, white cotton cardigan or shrug, to wear with a few favourite sleeveless summer dresses.  In the past, I used to be able to buy pretty little cotton lace knitted cardigans in M&S, that went with everything, but they don't do them anymore.  Most of what I find nowadays is in ivory, not white.

 

Well, I happened to be doing my weekly shop, and came across a little lightweight shrug, in white with scalloped edges, and made from 80% cotton, 20% nylon.  A snip at £8.00 (made in Cambodia).  Perfect!  I only hope that the people who made this garment were paid fairly. 

 

I was reminded of little cardigans in the medium price range market (about £50 - £60), that have been embellished with lace (as is the current trend). 

 

I have an old biscuit tin, with scraps of lace.

 

I raided my tin, and found some cotton lace that was the perfect width (about an inch wide), that was scalloped along one edge, mirroring the scalloped edges of the shrug.

 

 

 

This was a simple transformation.  I simply pinned the lace around the edges

 

 

 

..and stitched in place using the stretch stitch on my sewing machine.  The ends were finished by hand sewing, turning under the edges to prevent fraying.  Then pressed. 

 

 

 

 

 

I am pleased with the results, and look forward to wearing it with my favourite summer dresses. 

 

 

 

 

Right now, the supermarket in question has 25% off all clothing, so you could get hold of the same shrug for a mere £6.00.

 

Lovely!

 

And now for something not sewing related.  Here is a picture of my Easter Simnel cake. 

 

 

 

I used a favourite recipe from a book - Glorious Cakes by Ann Nicol.  I decorated the top with lightly toasted marzipan (toast the top of the cake, then add the balls of marzipan using egg white as glue and toast lightly).  When the marzipan had cooled, I put a puddle of glace icing in the centre, and decorated with crystalised violets and a primrose from my garden.

 

 

 

Have a wonderful Easter everyone!

 

 

 

 

FASHION PROJECT - Holiday dress with orchids on.

If you like flowers and plants, you may know that this weekend see's the Royal Horticultural Society's Orchid and Botanical Art Show in London.  So, what better time than to share my "orchid dress".

 

 

My first attempt at this dress was 7 years ago, when I decided to dust off my sewing machine and have a go at making some clothes.  The problem was that I had not done any dress making for years, and naively cut out my pattern size without checking my measurements....and guess what? The bodice didn't fit at all!  Feeling disappointed, the unmade dress went into the stash pile, with the intention of trying to make it again when I was feeling more confident.

 

Recently, I fell in love with Kate Spades collection using a summery print with lemons on!  It reminded me of my orchid fabric hidden in my stash pile because of the bright colours contrast against the white. 

 

 

 I  made the dress using the same pattern as before - Butterick B4443, view C.  I believe this is a popular pattern for making bridesmaids dresses.

 

 

I re-drafted the bodice, and made a toile first, which seemed to fit quite well.  

 

Close up view of bodice

 

 

 

Front of dress with belt tied at the back

The changes that I made were to back the fabric instead of lining it (because my fabric was a fine lawn and fairly transparent), and to increase the length of the belt.  I used a contrasting colour for the belt, which slightly clashes but I think adds a bit of zing!

 

 

 

 

 

Rear view of the dress

 

Front view with belt tied at the front

 After recently reading Handmade Jane's post on adding a waist stay, I decided to add this too - I just need to add the fasteners when I next get a chance to visit my local sewing supplier.

 

Waist stay 

 On the day I took the pictures I wasn't feeling well, with a cold and a red nose.  Hence the dummy is my substitute model.  The dress fits well though, and I am looking forward to wearing it.

WHAT I LEARNT

That when I cut out the skirt all those years ago, I failed to notice that I had cut the back pattern pieces upside down - oops!  I don't think that it is too obvious though.

WHAT I WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY NEXT TIME

As the skirt is circular, the hem is quite tricky, and more so having been backed,  creating unnecessary bulk at the hemline.  Instead, I would opt for a full dress length lining instead.

Dreaming of balmy warm sunny mediteranean days, with a cool limoncello.  Imagining myself perched at a table overlooking the sea, wearing my dress and  new white wedges.  La dolce vita!

Have a good weekend folks!  I am off to Lymington in Hampshire to visit my (grown up) children before Easter.

FASHION POST - Recreating a favourite dress - part 2

Following my last post.  Here is my method for reproducing a favourite dress.

STEP 1

Place the dress to be copied on a dress dummy.  Have some old fabric.  I used an old bed sheet.

STEP 2

Cut your fabric into usable pieces bigger than the finished pattern pieces, that can be attached to the dress easily.

STEP 3

Pin the fabric carefully to the dress outlining the section to be copied. Using a coloured pen (that will not leak onto the dress!) , trace the outline of the shapes.

 

STEP 4

When you have all the shapes make sure that you mark which piece is which.  I also drew a diagram of the dress, with measurements, and used this information to correct the pattern shapes.

STEP 5

Use the measurements to correct the pattern shapes and even them up to make them symmetrical).  Don't forget to add a seam allowance - I used a standard 1.5cm or 5/8 inch.  When you are happy, cut out the completed shapes to use as a pattern.

STEP 6

Make a toile to test it out.

 

 

PROJECT NOTES

I did not want to make an exact copy.  For my version I used felled seams except for the side seams).  The sleeve sections were cut on the bias, and these were quite fiddly to attach - however, I think the sleeves could be left off or customised in other ways.  I am considering how to make this process more straight forward.  The neckline was finished with a contrast satin bias binding.

I made the front and back sections, then joined them together.  The dress has a side zipper.

The lining was just cut as one front and back section, using the made up sections from the  toile.  The lining is attached to the dress at the neckline, sleeves, and zipper.

 

  

 

 

WHAT I WOULD CHANGE.

 

Although I love the fabric, it has a slight stretch.  When making this dress in stretch fabric, it was tricky to avoid distortion of the shape because of the felled seams.  In future, I would use non stretch satin.  If I used a knit or stretchy fabric, I would use ordinary seams.

CONCLUSION

This process from start to finish takes quite a long time.  However, I enjoyed figuring it out, and seeing a dress take shape. 

FASHION PROJECT - Recreating a favourite dress - part one.

I have a dress that I have worn a lot because I love it and it makes me feel good because it is a "happy" dress.  It is the kind of dress that can be worn from Autumn through to Spring.  Every time I wear it I receive complements.  I then wash it straight away in order that I can wear it again. The trouble is, that it is now getting shabby from being worn so much.  I have searched the pattern catalogues for a matching pattern in order to reproduce it but, alas, to no avail.  (sad face).

Do you have clothes in your wardrobe that, when you wear them, you always receive complements?  Is this a sure sign that that the garment looks good on you?


Here is my original dress.

 

(sorry about my gardening shoes in the background!)

The solution - to try and reproduce the dress myself, by copying it.  After all, this is what people used to do "in the old days" when it was the norm to make your own clothing.

I have never done this before.  However, the dress is a simple but flattering shape, with no complicated pleats or gathers anywhere, so I figured that I would be able to work something out.


The good news is that it worked.  I now have my #pattern as well, so I can make it as many times as I want.

My new dress.

 

 

 

 

 

The dress is made from Satin.  The original was silk satin, but my lower budget version was in polyester satin with a polyester gorgette lining.  I made my own bias binding for the neckline.  This is a fabulously comfortable dress to wear and can be layered.  The lining adds weight to the dress, so that it can be dried on a hanger with no need for ironing.




I bought the fabric from Craftswoman fabrics. I do not usually like animal print fabrics, but I thought this looked gorgeous in sapphire blue.  I'm in the process of making another one for Spring, and will post this soon.

In my next post, I will share how I copied the pattern.  I worked this process out myself and so my techniques may not be the same as the professionals - the important thing is that it worked.

Do you have clothes that become favourites too?

FASHION PROJECT - ALMA BLOUSE IN LACE

 So here it is - my first attempt at the Alma blouse, "on trend" (yes, I am getting used to the lingo), in lace!  The fashion magazines suggest wearing lace tops with either jeans or a pleated skirt. 

While sewing I noticed a starling in the garden for the first time this year - one of the early migrating birds having returned.  I was sitting at my kitchen table with the sun streaming in, a mug of Jasmine tea, and listening to Classic FM, mindfully sewing away.  Bliss!  

 

 

 Shame about the reflections!

I was pleased with my decision to back the blouse with white chiffon (purchased from Minerva crafts)  - it was so lovely and soft, and makes the blouse light and comfortable to wear.  The reverse view also looked pretty and I was half tempted to make the blouse inside out!  Anyway,  the lace is not scratchy, being a cotton lace fabric from Truro fabrics. 

 

I inserted the zip and finished the hems by hand.  I used French seams and finished the neckline was finished with satin bias binding.

I still have some fabric left over, so I may make a simple matching skirt.

One of the pleasures of sewing clothes, is the anticipation of what the finished product is going to look like.  I love to see other peoples interpretations of a pattern, which only goes to show how one simple pattern can have a multitude of variations and can be adapted to seasonal trends.

 

 

 

Enjoy your weekend everyone.

Fashion Projects - Muslin for Alma Bouse view B.

What an exciting week it has been for fashion, what with London fashion week, and the award ceremonies - inspiration galore!  In addition, there was the start of the new series on BBC2 - The Great British Sewing Bee.   Well it's a good job that I am not on the sewing bee because I would never finish in time.  I like to sew at a leisurely pace. Anyway, I digress.  I want to share the progress with my current project - The Alma Blouse.

 Before I can get going on a new pattern, I usually need to make lots of alterations, especially for the upper body.  The Alma blouse was no exception.   This is not a criticism of the pattern, but something I have to do all the time. Although a simple pattern, I needed to make a lot of changes to get a good fit, and this took me a day to achieve.  

Firstly, I reduced the neckline to reduce gaping, and increased the shoulder width because of my broad shoulders.

I then made up my first muslin using kwik trace.  When I tried it on, it was apparent that several more changes were needed : -

1. The bust point was too high so that I had a surplus of fabric puffing out on my upper chest.  This was remedied by cutting the pattern across the upper chest and adding 1.5cm to the length, and then reducing the front by a corresponding 1.5 cm at the "increase or decrease here" line.  I also had to smarten up the darts.

2. The neckline was too small  (probably because I had reduced the neckline), and had lost the intended shape.  I enlarged this by marking the first muslin where I wanted the neckline to be, and then shaped the pattern using my French curve.

3.  The blouse felt tight across my shoulders.  I, therefore, checked it against my measurements, and then added some width, but tapering it down at the side seams which were fine at the lower end of the blouse.

4.  The neckline was sticking out at the back.  This is a problem which I frequently encounter on ready to wear clothing (and can usually hide with my long hair).  This was remedied by adding two small darts to the neckline in the direction of the shoulder blade.  I marked the shoulder blade point on my pattern, and also re-positioned the back darts to sit just below these points.

5.  As usual, because of my sway back, there was a surplus of fabric in the lower back region.  This was corrected by pinning the muslin across the width of the lower back to take out the surplus fabric, and then transferring the changes to the pattern piece, making sure that it tapered to the edge so as not to affect the length of the side seams.

After all this, I was concerned that I had made so many changes that the pattern would not come together or resemble the original.  I made up another muslin, but this time in fabric (I used an old bed sheet).

When I tried on the second muslin, it fitted like a glove!  Success!!!!  The joy of this is the comfort a well fitting garment gives you so that you are hardly aware that you are wearing anything!  More flattering too of course.  Although not shown here, I also stitched in the sleeves, which were also a good fit.

I am indebted to one of my old books "Sewing" by Ann Ladbury, for some of the advice on alterations.

Now I have the pattern sorted, I can go ahead and make the blouse up with confidence.  I plan to make the first one in a lace fabric.  As facings will show through, I am going to exclude them, but back the lace with chiffon, and may reinforce the neck edge with satin bias binding.

If I had just sailed ahead and made up the pattern as printed, I would end up feeling disappointed with my finished garment.  It was worth the effort, and will fulfil my intention of having well made clothes that fit properly.